Carol and Adam's European Vacation - Summer, 2004

warning: a bazillion photo-links ahead, definitely worth clicking on!
   For larger, printable versions, see bottom of this page.

Tuscany and Provence

In the two weeks just prior to the height of tourist season 2004, Carol and I
   drove through Tuscany (site of "Under the Tuscan Sun") and Provence (site
   of "A Year in Provence").  The genesis was an email from some friends who
   wanted to share a villa for a week, and we arranged a home exchange for
   the following week in Provence.

The trip started on a bad note, with storms in New York causing a missed
   connection, $1000 in fees between the airfare, car rental and hotel, but a
   fun night getting drunk with strangers in New York City and staying in a
   swank hotel room.  We made a standby flight the next day on Alitalia,
   eating far better food than Delta knows how to serve.  Won't fly Delta
   again.  We arrived in Milan the next day and rented a car, not much to
   report other than the inability to get away from the startup scene-- even
   the next guy in line renting a car was employee 9 at a medical devices
   startup.  C'est la vie, or whatever the italian equivalent is.

Top 10 Best Photos

Aside the amazing sunset photos below (see "Top Photosets," below), here
    are my favorite photos:
10. carrara: closeup of a diamond-tipped chain used to cut marble.
 9. provence: public wash basin with bird caught in mid-flight.
 8. st. saturnin: an archway in saint saturnin: st_saturnin_archway.JPG
 7. cinque terre: some sort of inter-mountain transport system
 6. st. saturnin: carol striking a killer pose and again
 5. st. saturnin: tower with the provence countryside in background
 4. apt: sunglasses on cafe table, with restaurant reflected in them
 3. provence: crazy effect involving moving light
 2. tuscany: walking in the tuscan countryside, we came upon a ruined house
 1. tuscany: the #1 babe basking by the pool

Top Outrageous Moments (with photos)

 1. Sneaking surreptitious photos of David's butt for the girls.  We also
    snapped some dumb postcards of David.

 2. Getting drunk in a New York irish pub with some Irish girls on holiday
    and a WaMu investment banker, who told us all about how Atkin's has given
    him new hopes for dating.  Carol sleeping in.

 3. After taking a hike in some trails in Provence, finding a lone roadside
    farmer selling nothing but cherries, buying a kilo, and eating them in
    the car, spitting the pits out the windows, blasting John Mayer.  Eating
    them again as part of a giant lunch on the back porch in the heat of the
    Provence afternoon, getting embarrassingly drunk on outrageously good
    wine, and doing synchronized-spitting of cherry pits into the backyard on
    a three-count.  In english and in french.

 3. Driving the rental car into the mountains of Carrara, up 20+ degree inclines,
    unsure if I could get it down.

 4. Hanging out in cafes all over Italy and France, eating bad sandwiches and
    great gelato, checking out the locals and taking stupid photos and video
    clips.  My favorite was one of David, taken off a postcard: "look ma, we
    saw David" ha ha.  Fine, so we were drinking wine on empty stomaches again.

 5. Home cooking with local ingrediants.  We didn't photograph
    the best meals-- too busy chowing-- but here's an omelette we made one morning in Tuscany,
    and a quick lunch we whipped up in
    Provence (squid-ink spaghetti with a lemon-butter-shallot sauce, cucumber
    and avocado salad, marinaded tomato salad with thinly sliced parmagiana
    cheese and the last of the salami).

 6. Carol passing out topless on the couch in Provence, thrashing about in her 
    dream-packed sleep, , talking in french!  "oui oui..."

 7. Our totally cool (milfy?) hostess rocking out in the kitchen to White Stripes.
    Hearing Tupac's California Love coming from the kitchen at a fancy restaurant
    in Provence.

 8. I forgot what 8 was for.  Oh yeah, blasting Violent Femmes while
    speeding on the A10-- bridge, tunnel, curve, bridge, tunnel, curve for
    an hour, ducati's flying by.

 9. The pizza and the foie gras, the two foods that were genuinely better.

10. <censored>.


Favorite Photosets
 - the leaning tower of pisa, with tourists doing dumb poses: 
   and enhanced with adam's extra lean-o-matic trick photography

 - sunset photos: 
   tree_sunset1.JPG
   tree_sunset2.JPG
   tree_sunset3.JPG
   tree_sunset4.JPG
   tree_house_sunset1.JPG
   villa_sunset.JPG

 - 3min video walking through florence after an amazing fireworks show.

 - crazy english translation at a gas station

 - carol went nuts taking photos of me and isabelle cooking:
   adam_cooking_provence1.JPG / adam_cooking_provence2.JPG (profile shots)
   adam_cooking_provence3.JPG / adam_cooking_provence4.JPG (with and without raised eyebrows)
   adam_cooking_provence5.JPG / adam_cooking_provence6.JPG (frozen action)
   adam_cooking_provence7.JPG / adam_cooking_provence8.JPG (cool blurry action)

 - the marble mountains of carrara.  It was terrifying to drive on a one-way
   road through a mountain (photo, the video, and another video).  Everywhere
   there were live quarries and stone cutting plants.  Near the top was an
   outdoor museum with a history of stone tools show you how they're used.

 - adam and carol eating out in a restaurant, taken with a long exposure (1.3s) 
   wineglass serving as makeshift tripod.  Obligatory couple photo (delayed, 
   balanced on other table) and another kissing.

Driving in Tuscany

Good news: the car came with A/C and my MP3 player and cassette adapter
   hooked right up.  After figuring out reverse gear (pull up, of course, duh),
   15 minute up later we're doing 130 on the autostrade, alternating between
   tunnels and bridges, listening to the Beastie Boys flying into Tuscany,
   nevermind the lack of airbags or the kamakaze Ducatis.  Whee!

Local roads are worse: impatient locals passing on blind turns, grandmas not
   looking for their next birthdays, cyclists taking advantage of their
   rights of way, oncoming cars parking on your side, you name it.  Little
   did I realize it was the warmup (see "Driving in Provence").

Eating in Tuscany

The pizza kicks honky butt, no kidding-- it's thin, it's rich, they don't
   fool around, none of this bury it in tombstone mozzarella crap, we're
   talking fresh ingrediants, good dough, and if they call out something,
   they mean it.  The pasta was good too, but I can do just as well--
   restaurants are limited by the cost of ingrediants and trying to time the
   delivery-- at home, one person doesn't order risotto, another pizza and a
   third, manicotti.

In fact, we did a fair bit of cooking, culminating in a lunch so rich and
   delicious, it completely ruined our dinner, complete with marinated tuna,
   marinated mozzarella/tomato/onion, two kinds of pasta, three fresh pasta
   sauces, all cooked in tuscan style.  What's a half liter of olive oil
   between 8 people?

Tuscany Grocery Stores

I love cooking, and love grocery shopping even more.  The Tuscan grocer scene
   is now dominated by large chains that look like Safeway, but cater to
   Italian tastes.  Which are:
 - an entire double-sided aisle devoted to dry pasta.
 - easily 30 kinds of fresh mozzarella balls: round ones, blobby ones; big
   ones, bite-sized ones; organic vs. traditional; different brands vs. house
   brand.  Easily 100 types of cheeses and dozens of types of salami, meats
   of all kinds, etc. 
 - the produce was about the same as here-- bright and fresh, but not
   necessarily better quality if not produced locally and in season.
 - prices were generally cheaper than northern california, esp. for locally
   produced goods like olive oil.  There, $8 buys you a liter of the good
   stuff (organic, estate-produced extra virgin olive oil with the fancy
   label and all that).  Here in California it's $25.

Strangely, major supermarkets didn't take credit cards.

The House

The whole thing started with friends saying "we're going to rent a house in
   tuscany for a week-- want to join?"  We said "yes" before we found
   Renai on the map (find Castelfiortino on mappy.com, then imagine driving
   up in the hills off the paved roads, into a one-restaurant, no-stop-sign
   hamlet).

The house was stunning: brand new construction, but beautifully designed 4
   bedroom house with exquisite tilework, a super-fancy interior paint job,
   swimmming pool, fancy stove, the works.  The owners lived next door, and
   left us a bottle of wine from their vineyard (of course, doesn't everyone
   have a vineyard?) and one day, dropped off some piping-hot homemade pizzas.
   It sucks to have jetlag, but doesn't to swim naked as the sun rises over
   the tuscan hills.  Yeah, baby.

All in all, pretty much as described in "Under the Tuscan Sun" but without
   the house restoration adventures.  By the way, the movie doesn't appear to
   have anything to do with the book, which as usual is far better.  Here's a
   panoramic video of the countryside.

Florence

With only a week total and days lost to sunbathing, cooking and eating,
   recovering from late night how many bottles of wine later, we only spent
   two half-days in Florence.  The big day we hit the Uffizi (famous art
   museum) and Duomo (overrated church).  The Uffizi's collection of pre- and
   renaissance art is unparalleled, but the presentation is no better than
   the other disasters of modern museumgoing, including glares, crowds,
   obnoxious guards, closed rooms, sculptures blocking paintings, paintings
   hung too high, you name it.  I'd be used to the disappointment but for
   real artists' museums, like the Whitney in New York and the Museum of
   Contemporary Art (MCA) in Chicago.  Enough plugging and anti-plugging.
   Sadly, we missed the Bordello, I mean Bargello.

Outside Florence: Carrara and nearby

I took a day on my own to drive up to Carrara, a childhood dream of any
   wannabe stone sculptor.  As expected, it and Pietrasanta are one stone
   cutting shop after another.  I should have expected the real artisans to
   be scarce, but you never get over the disappointment of modern economics.
   Carrara's Marble Museum was interesting, but for only fifteeen minutes.

Not to be left depressed, I trekked uphill to the mines, and almost stranded
   the Fiat Punto in the mountains before driving through a mountain to a
   remote but live quarry, where some miner's daughters gave me a 5 euro tour
   of the "only" quarry inside a mountain.  Just too cool for school: 50
   meter ceilings, walls and floors of straight-cut marble, water dripping
   through the mountain onto your head.  Their English was excellent, and
   they explained a number of things about the trade.

Also hit the ocean at Forte Di Marmi, right down from Carrara -- think Palo
   Alto meets Santa Barbara on the Riviera.  Super-swank, beach umbrellas as
   far as the eye can see.  Perhaps I'm jaded by Carol and her friends, but
   so what?  More beach babes, more riviera swimsuits you don't swim in.

Driving to Provence

So you have to imagine: Carol doesn't drive stick, so I'm driving us from the
   outback of tuscany to the outback of provence, stopping for 90 minutes to
   see Pisa's town (it leans), and again in Cince Terre, all on little sleep
   and having done the Carrara mountain drive the day before.  We didn't even
   have time to stop the car in Cinqe Terre, crime of the year according to
   nearly everyone -- but as it was, we arrived in Provence at 11pm to greet
   out house-exchanger, who had dinner waiting, kind soul she was.

Provence House

We stayed in Saint Saturnin ("sahn sah-tu-na", spent the week learning to
   pronounce it), a small village outside Apt, itself a small town whose
   nearest city is Aix, which bears some relationship to Marseilles,
   i.e. middle of nowhere.  Took us an hour from the A7 autostrade, and
   that's without getting lost much.

Provence House Exchange

Our house exchanger, Isabelle, lives in Paris with her husband and two
   teenage sons.  To give you a sense of her coolness quotient, he's a
   graphic designer and she's a (retired) fashion designer, and they do well
   enough to own two homes in the two of the swankiest parts of France.

So what can you give the person who has everything?  Samplings of the latest
   american music, of course-- tons of it, burned onto CDs.  Her taste runs
   into the grungy rock, the louder the better, so I left her stuff like
   White Stripes.  She loved it.

She stayed with us the first three days, showed us around the tiny village
   (St. Saturnin les Apt), took us out for our first real French dinner,
   nudged us to see sights, and introduced us to the wine merchant, literally
   across the street.  She cooked a meal for us, I cooked one for her, with
   ingrediants driven in from Italy.  All in all, great fun.

Driving in Provence

Italy is totally reasonable compared to Provence, with bi-directional roads
   as narrow as one-way US streets, cars going far faster, and more accidents
   than castles.

On the other hand, I got the gist of it quickly-- must be California driving,
   but traffic circles are awesome once you learn to look left, stickshift is
   fun once you learn to emergency brake on hills, and parking is not so bad
   once you learn to read the signage.  It's nothing compared to San
   Francisco parking meters saying you can park between 3:45 and 8:15am on
   alternating tuesdays when the moon is full and there's no construction,
   street sweeping, rush hour traffic or presidential tours.

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small medium large leaning_tower2.JPG File size : 1480217 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:28:02 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:26 03:38:42 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 15.4mm (35mm equivalent: 78mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0050 s (1/200) Aperture : f/10.0 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large live_quarry.JPG File size : 2405864 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:29:59 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 07:58:56 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0020 s (1/500) Aperture : f/7.1 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large marble_cutting_chain.JPG File size : 1163542 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:30:55 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 09:06:28 Resolution : 1704 x 2272 Orientation : rotate 90 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0050 s (1/200) Aperture : f/2.8 Metering Mode: spot	small medium large paintjob.JPG File size : 1178511 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:31:52 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:21 21:38:46 Resolution : 1704 x 2272 Orientation : rotate 90 Flash used : No Focal length : 9.1mm (35mm equivalent: 46mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.020 s (1/50) Aperture : f/3.2 Metering Mode: center weight
small medium large provence_lunch.JPG File size : 1721839 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:33:16 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:07:01 05:45:11 Resolution : 1704 x 2272 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0050 s (1/200) Aperture : f/2.8 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large stoned_dude.JPG File size : 1280860 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:34:21 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:20 10:56:02 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 22.2mm (35mm equivalent: 112mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.167 s (1/6) Aperture : f/4.9 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large stone_cutting_plant.JPG File size : 1895135 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:35:55 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 08:03:26 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0025 s (1/400) Aperture : f/7.1 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large stone_tools_museum1.JPG File size : 1641250 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:37:18 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 08:00:10 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 10.8mm (35mm equivalent: 55mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0063 s (1/160) Aperture : f/8.0 Metering Mode: center weight
small medium large stone_tools_museum2.JPG File size : 1953074 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:38:53 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 08:00:21 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0050 s (1/200) Aperture : f/7.1 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large stone_tools_museum3.JPG File size : 1826802 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:40:25 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 08:00:30 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0050 s (1/200) Aperture : f/7.1 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large stone_tools_museum4.JPG File size : 1862966 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:41:56 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 08:00:39 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0063 s (1/160) Aperture : f/7.1 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large stone_tools_museum5.JPG File size : 1734121 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:43:21 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 08:01:05 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0016 s (1/640) Aperture : f/7.1 Metering Mode: center weight
small medium large stone_tools_museum6.JPG File size : 1948749 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:44:58 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 08:01:23 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0016 s (1/640) Aperture : f/7.1 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large stone_tools_museum7.JPG File size : 1614455 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:46:18 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:25 08:01:42 Resolution : 1704 x 2272 Orientation : rotate 90 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0031 s (1/320) Aperture : f/7.1 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large stupid_closeup.JPG File size : 1089985 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:47:12 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:20 10:56:46 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 22.2mm (35mm equivalent: 112mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.125 s (1/8) Aperture : f/4.9 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large st_saturnin_archway.JPG File size : 1636748 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:48:34 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:27 02:11:12 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0031 s (1/320) Aperture : f/2.8 Metering Mode: center weight
small medium large st_saturnin_tower.JPG File size : 1415003 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:49:45 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:28 04:21:03 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 12.9mm (35mm equivalent: 65mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0031 s (1/320) Aperture : f/9.0 Metering Mode: matrix	small medium large sunset_pool.JPG File size : 1065534 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:50:38 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:23 11:51:21 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 12.9mm (35mm equivalent: 65mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0020 s (1/500) Aperture : f/3.5 Metering Mode: spot	small medium large swimming_pool.JPG File size : 2193019 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:52:27 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:19 08:56:11 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 15.4mm (35mm equivalent: 78mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0020 s (1/500) Aperture : f/4.0 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large tile_work.JPG File size : 2245418 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:54:18 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:21 21:40:48 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : Yes Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.017 s (1/60) Aperture : f/2.8 Metering Mode: center weight
small medium large tree_house_sunset1.JPG File size : 924593 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:55:04 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:23 11:34:21 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 22.2mm (35mm equivalent: 160mm) CCD width : 5.01mm Exposure time: 0.0100 s (1/100) Aperture : f/4.9 Metering Mode: spot	small medium large tree_sunset1.JPG File size : 1612622 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:56:25 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:23 11:30:47 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 22.2mm (35mm equivalent: 112mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0080 s (1/125) Aperture : f/4.9 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large tree_sunset2.JPG File size : 1138095 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:57:21 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:23 11:31:34 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 22.2mm (35mm equivalent: 112mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0050 s (1/200) Aperture : f/13.0 Metering Mode: spot	small medium large tree_sunset3.JPG File size : 655754 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 08:57:53 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:23 11:32:46 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 22.2mm (35mm equivalent: 307mm) CCD width : 2.60mm Exposure time: 0.0012 s (1/800) Aperture : f/13.0 Metering Mode: spot
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small medium large villa_sunset.JPG File size : 1214611 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 09:07:22 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:23 11:47:43 Resolution : 1704 x 2272 Orientation : rotate 90 Flash used : No Focal length : 12.9mm (35mm equivalent: 65mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.017 s (1/60) Aperture : f/3.5 Metering Mode: center weight	small medium large wash_basin.JPG File size : 1303308 bytes File date : 2004:07:04 09:08:30 Camera make : Canon Camera model : Canon PowerShot S400 Date/Time : 2004:06:27 04:30:27 Resolution : 2272 x 1704 Flash used : No Focal length : 7.4mm (35mm equivalent: 37mm) CCD width : 7.11mm Exposure time: 0.0040 s (1/250) Aperture : f/2.8 Metering Mode: center weight